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CITY BACK YARD GARDEN 

BY THE SANDWICH SYSTEM 




BENJ. F. ALBAUGH 



The Gardenette 



OR 

City Back Yard GardEiN 

S Y 

The Sandwich System 
W ,9,2 AN 

A Complete Guide 

FOR 



The Amateur Gardener 

BY 

Benjamin F. Albaugh 

Covington, Ohio 



Copyrighted 1912 

By 

Benjamin F. Albaugh 



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THE GARDENETTE 

OR 

The City Back Yard Garden. 

THIS LITTLE VOLUME is not designed as a guide to those who 
have large areas to cultivate, nor is it intended for the use of pro- 
fessional marker gardeners, but is arranged to meet the needs of 
the beginner, or amateur, and especially for those who have limited 
areas that are available for this purpose. 

Few persons realize the possibilities of the small piece of ground repre- 
sented by the back-yard of the ordinary city lot — that part which is not oc- 
cupied by buildings. Too often this part of the yard is made the depository 
of garbage and useless trash of all kinds. 

Such accumulations are unsightly and unsanitary. 




This waste ground could be made to produce enough vegetables of all kinds, 
to supply several families. 



The Sandwich System, herein described, is not an idle theory, but a 
solid, successful fact, the result of five years careful, painstaking experiments, 
and highly successful efforts in practical vegetable growing. 

This peculiar method was first suggested by noticing the marvelous 



n-rowth of woods, olc, alxmt tlio haso of an old, dooayiiif;' stniwhoap, whore 
soiiio slahio maiiuro liad hooii diiinped on a lliin layer of straw. On lids 
inoro shaw was scratchod down by i)ouUry. Lastly on top a few wa^on-loads 
of si root scrapings, containing weed seeds were dumped. With this hint for 
a hoginninii', the niarvelously successful Sandwich bed was elaborated. 

'I'lio surpassing vigor of growth, the oarlinoss, largo size, and su|)erior 
quality of the jjroducts grown by this method, make gardening a very fasci- 
nating employment, for it cannot be denied that the ability to greatly .sur- 
l)ass "The Other Fellow", gives especial gratification to those engaged in 
this lino of work. 

Where the space is limited, only a few articles should be attemi)ted. 
It does not require a large area to grow a few fine tomatoes, muskmellons, 
cauliflower or egg ]>lant. Or a bed of lettuce, spinach, or green onions. 

If only one square rod is available, it will pay to have a " Gardenette. " 






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Flowers on Sandwich Beds. 



Tlic iiso of Saiidwicli Hvds tor <iro\viiiu flowering i)l;ints was an after- 
tlioii^lil witli the author. One seasoiTs trial, however, has demonstrated 
that niar\elous results may he thus secured. 

'I'he limited space in this little l)ook has |)re\-ented the introduction 
of anvlhiiifi- more than the mention, at another j)laee, of a few- suggestive 
examples. Tlie following is a list of the jilants experimented with, all of 
which gave marvelous results, viz.: Pansies, (ieraniums. Asters, Sweet peas, 
Chrysanthenunns, Carnations, Thlox. Zinnias, Mignonette, Hybrid Tea 
Ro.ses, Ricimis, which grew to a height of fifteen feet; Salvias, Marigolds, 
Alyssum, Dahlias,— l)lo()ms 7 to inches in diameter of large blooming varie- 
ties — Cannas, (iladiolus. Hyacinths. 'Pulips. etc., etc. 

The single failure was with Nasturtiums. These made a stu])endu()us 
growth, vines ten to fifteen feet long, (they were the climbing variety) l)ut 
the i)looms were no better than those grown by ordinary methods. 

The chief points of advantage seems to be in the marvelous growth 
secured, which j)ermits severe ])runing, thus securing especially fine specimens. 

Both kinds of Sandwich l)eds were used in these experiments, with 
cfiual success. 

A little reflection will convince any one that these results are, after all, 
only what can reasonably be expected where all necessary conditions are 
supplied, viz.. Fertility. Aeration of the roots, and ^Foisture. without Soggi- 
ne.ss. 

Try a few varieties of your own selection — there is a wide field for choosing 
— and you will be delighted with the results obtained. 



44s 




An Improved Back-yard. 



Space Required. 



THREE square rods or a space of ground, say eighteen by forty-five 
feet, can be made to produce a large part of all the vegetables need- 
ed to supply the table of a family of five or six persons through- 
out the season. 

The author has repeatedly produced on such a plot, but containing four 
square rods about the following: — 



30 Dozen Green Onions 
1 Bushel Dry Onions 

10 Messes Green Peas, 

15 Dozen Beets, 

22 Dozen Radishes, 
200 Heads fine Celery, 

10 Messes Green Beans 

25 Heads finest Cauliflower 

25 Heads Cabbage, 

10 Messes Spinach, 

10 Messes Chard, 

20 Messes Asparagus, 

10 Messes Salsify, 

10 Messes Carrots, 

10 Messes Parsnips, 



25 Choice Egg Plant, 
25 Extra fine Squashes, 
50 IVIesses Lettuce, 
10 Messes Endive, 
10 ^Messes Kohl Rabi, 

8 Dozen Sugar Corn, 
50 Extra fine Cantaloups, 
200 Pickling Cucumbers, 
10 Slicing Cucumbers, 

5 Bushels Tomatoes, 

5 Bushels Tomaties, 

2 Bushels Early Potatoes, 

6 Pints Lima Beans, 

3 Bushels Turnips, 
3 Quarts Okra. 



At a low estimate these are wortli forty dollars; often they would cost 
much more to buy. But it is not only the market value of the vegetables 
but frcfihness and Ji^ie quality that should be considered. Green onions, 
radishes, green peas, beans, lettuce, spinach, and especially celery, rapidly lose 
their crisp freshness when gathered and exposed for sale days before using. 

When grown in home garden they come to the table with all their fine 
flavor unimpaired. 

Then for the business or professional man, who toils all day in office, 
bank, factory or shop, the change to the light physical labor in the open 
air, and bright sunshine, gives just the needed change necessary for health, 
both of body and mind. Such employment will be found restful and soothing 
to the overtaxed and wearied mind and nerves. 

A love for digging in the soil seems inherent. Try it, and you will soon 
learn to look forward with pleasurable anticipations to the hour before 
breakfast, in the cool, dewy mornings, and the hour after supper, when 
the heat of the day is over, that you may spend in the light, delightful work 
of planting, hoeing and watering. 

Watching the growth and development of the plants is a constant source 
of joy and delight. You forget the cares and worries, and gather new courage 
for the morrow. 

Indeed, Amateur Gardening appeals to most of us in a way that is 
totally unlike any other employment. The liking for the work seems in- 
tuitive; perhaps because it brings us very close to nature; possibly because 
there seems a lingering memory in the human mind of the Lost Eden. At 
any rate this desire and taste for gardening is universal, and deserves to be 
encouraged, for it tends to tran(|uility of mind, and is conducive both to 
health and longevity. 

SMALL DETAILS. 

The author assumes that the reader is without practical experience or 
knowledge of gardening. Hence the care in preparing this little guide in 
describing and explaining even the most trivial details of the work, for Success 
often dei)ends uj)on the Small Matters, which most authors entirely ignore, 
forgetting that many successful business men have neither time nor opj)or- 
tunity to master minor details. Then it may l)e that there are boys, ten 
to fifteen years old, who can be interested in this very fascinating work 
during the Summer's vacation. It is certainly an ideal occupation for most 
boys, as it affords a needed outlet for surplus energy, while the sense of pro- 
prietorship, and the self-respect which always accompanies successful, pro- 
ductive endeavor, all aid in the formation of good, industrious habits, and 
manly ciiaractcr. (iivc the boy a chance. It is far better than summer 
excursions to the country in doiiblfiil company. 



I would suggest that the family pay to the boy, or girl, a fair price for 
all the fresh vegetables used, as a just and reasonable recompense for the 
labor and care involved. 

The family gets fresh vegetables at a fair price, and labor receives its 
just reward. Try it. Encourage the boys and girls in forming habits of 
industry. 




A Successful Gardner. 



The Sandwich System. 



TIIFi METHOD lu'R'iii (loscrihed of growing vegetables of sii|H'rior 
earliiioss and finest (|uality is new and entirely uni(|ne. Hy it the 
j)ro(lucls of the garden are always earlier, and at the same time 
of l)etter (|iiality than can possibly be produced in any other way. 
Why is this nu>lhod sujxM-ior to other metiiods? 

First : — Finest vegetables can be grown on hard, stony, or alkaline soils, 
where ordinary cultivation would be utterly fruitless. Even where "made" 
soils consisting mainly of brick-bats and old wall plaster, the Sandwich beds 
flourish. A solid rock, a i)aved street, or the tops of flat-roofed buildings 
could be made into a successful garden by this method. 

Eor best results ])lanls jieed aeration of tlie roots. If air cannot pene- 
trate to the roots the j)lant languishes <ind tlies from suffocation. When 
surface of ground is co\ered with water, the plant suffers in same way, and 
for the same reason. The Sandwich beds can neither V)e (h'owned or smothered. 
The air circulates through the .several layers of material, and if too much 
water is applied, it readily passes through the fibrous beds, and does no harm. 




\ (•>;ct.il>ics (in Saiulwich licds -I'cas, Spitiacli. Cauliflower, etc. 

10 



Second: — Fertility is placed just where it can easily be absorbed and 
assimilated by the plants. 

Third: — The fibrous nature of the bed causes it to warm up earlier than 
does the natural soil. 

Fourth: — While hydrant water must be supplied as often as needed, in 
practice it is found that this form of bed does not require as much water as 
would be supposed, for the decaying mass of fibrous material retains moisture 
in a way that is surprising. 

All kinds of vegetables, and most of flowering plants do wonderfully 
well on Sandwdch beds. Celery, Spinach, Endive, Chard, Egg Plant, 
Cabbage, Cauliflower, Kohl-rabi, Brussel Sprouts, etc., do exceptionally 
well. For Peas, Radishes, Carrots, Salsify, Parsnips, etc., where the soil is 
fairly good, it seems best to first spade the ground, as described in the "Modi- 
fied Sandwich bed," mixing in manure, and after raking fine and level, 
make the regular Sandwich bed on top. This is true of those plants that 
have long, penetrating roots like carrots, etc. 



DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING SANDWICH BEDS. 

First: — Place a layer of straw, or stable litter, or leaves from the trees, 
about five inches deep. Tramp or pack pretty firm anfl smooth. 

Second: — Spread over this a layer about one inch deep of rich, fine, 
stable manure. 

Third: — On this place another layer of stable litter about two inches 
thick. 

Tramp or pack this down firm. Then turn on the hose and give the 
mass a thorough soaking, but stop before leaching begins. 

Fourth: — Spread evenly over the bed at least four inches of street 
scrapings, but avoid streets that have oil or asphalt in their make-up. If 
street scrapings cannot be readily obtained, use instead, a compost of equal 
parts of fine river sand, rich garden soil, and old, fine stable manure. Mix 
by shoveling over in the heap. 

After all is in j)lace, tramp till firm, and it is ready to plant. 

It sometimes happens that the real Sandwich bed is not possible or 
])racticable; in such cases if the soil is reasonably fertile, and in good con- 
dition, the following method may be successfully adopted. 

11 



A ^rODIFIED SAXDWK H BED. 

Procure one load of rich, stable iiiaimre for each square rod of <frouiid, 
and haA'c it dumped on or near where the beds are to be made. 

Willi a spading fork, bejiinning at one entl of tlie bed, sj)ade a furrow 
across the bed; fill this furrow nearly full of manure, tramp down firm; then 
spade another furrow, throwing' the dirt over the manure. Fill this furrow 
with manure as before, and again throw the dirt from another line of spading, 
thus alternately filling furrow and spading, proceed, until the entire bed is 
spaded. 

Then cover the entire surface with street scrapings or compost, as before 
described, and rake smooth. 

After tlic first year with the Sandwich beds there will Ix' an abnndance 
of compost on hand, as all the body of the bed will be turned into conij)ost 
of the finest ((uality. 

It should be shoveled into large conical hea})s for wintering. After 
one season's use, before heaping in Autunni, make compost riclier by adding 
a wagon load of stalile manure, spreading it on the beds l)efore putting into 
heaps. 

The shoveling into heaps will thoroughly mix the mamire through the 
ma.ss, and leave it in |)erfect condition for spring use. 

There should be a generous sui)|)ly of compost always on hand, as it 
will be found to be very valual)le for em-icliing flower beds, etc.. It is also 
just what is need(>d for plotting plants, and for filling flats for starting early 
plants, etc. 

It usually ha|)j)cns that street scrapings can be had at a small cost if 
a convenient place for unloading is arranged, as it often saves a long haul to 
the public dump. And a modest tip to thi> driver will helj). The real 
value of this material is not generally understood, or aj)preciated. 

TOOLS AND APPLIANCES. 

A steel garden rake, s|)ading fork, small garden trowel, a long handlecl 
shovel, and a manure fork are al)oul ail the tools that need be purchased. 

In addition a *'fioat" is very convenient. This is a board one-half 
inch thick, ten inches long, and four inclu's in width. .V piece of broom 
handle, eight inches long, is firndy nailed on end to eenler of boaiil, using at 
least four slim, long nails. This imijlement is use<l to make the surface 
of the bed smooth, likewise for firming the soil after seeds arc covered. The 
edge is used to mark ofl" rows, and for covering the seeds. 

12 



BOARD FRAMES. 

After the beds are made, the use of frames is desirable. These are 
made of common, six inch fencing. They should be at least four in number, 
each twelve feet long, and six feet wide. These are lightly nailed together 
at corners for convenience, but need not be nailed so firmly as to prevent 
their being "knocked down" for winter storing. 

Before planting, the frames are placed in correct position on top of the 
bed. 

A board six inches wide, and four feet in length should be provided, on 
which to kneel while planting seeds or transplanting. 

Begin at one end of bed and as planting proceeds move backwards until 
the bed is completed. 

The beds may be of any suitable length, and may extend in any direc- 
tion, but the width should be uniform, and should be constructed a foot 
wider than the frames. There should be a walk on both sides of the bed, at 
least two feet wide, for convenience in watering, planting and gathering the 
crop. 

MUSLIN SCREENS. 

For protecting early plants from frosts, and for giving shade to newly 
set plants, a half dozen muslin screens should be provided. 

These are made of inch slats, six and one-half feet long, and exactly 
three feet wide, with a cross slat in the middle. 

Cover the frame with muslin a yard wide, of a quality usually costing 
about six cents per yard. Begin at one end, using small tacks, stretching 
the muslin pretty tight. Do not cut in single lengths, but stretch over the 
end, and thus tack the muslin on both sides. This gives a dead air space 
between the muslin covers. 

These screens are light, cheap, and are nearly as good as glazed sash, 
at less than one-fourth the cost, and no breakage of glass. 

The screens are also useful in giving partial shade to such succulent 
plants as radishes, lettuce, endive, celery, etc. By protecting these from 
the heat of the burning sun, greater crispness and brittleness is secured. 
Used in this way the frames should be supported on stakes two feet above 
the plants. 

If hard frosts threaten, first spread old newspapers over the tender plants, 
then place the screens on the board frames, and old rugs or carpets may be 
placed over all. In this way early plants may be safely carried through 
pretty hard freezing. 

13 



(.Kori' 1M>AN'IIN(;. 

It (Iocs iiol siHMii (losiral)lo U) lui\'o Lo he oii^aj-ed co/tttitiioiisli/ in plant in;;-. 
Aim! >•» it lKi])|)cns that there are a number of different kinds of i)laiils which 
do (>(|uaily well when planted at the same date, so these liave been assembled 
into uroiips. and all the work necessary for each group may be done at the 
sanu> time. 

It will be noticed that in '"First lManlin<i" there are Peas, Radishes, 
Beets, Lettuce and Onions. These are semi-hardy, and should be planted 
early. I'he plan uiven need not )>e rigidly followed, for no two families are 
exactl\' I lie same in their likings. Less or greater (puintities of each may be 
planted, or such things as are not wanted can be omitted entirely. The 
plans are nuM-ely suggestive, and may be varied to suit the taste of the planter. 

The \aricties of c-ourse may be also changed. Those named have been 
found (|uile satisfactory, ])ut others niay do ecpially well. These are given 
as ail aid in selecting the seeds that will be needed. Order seeds early, and 
buy only of relial)le seedsmen. 

If tlic a\ailal)le space is very limited, or if the planter has not lime to 
grow such plants as may be need for transplanting, such as Cabbage, Tomato, 
Cauliflower, Celery, Egg Plants, etc., it is usually chea))er to buy them of a 
reliable grower. In this case the plants should be ordered in advance, and 
have them .sent at i)roi)er date, which the grower understands. When 
])lants are received they shovdd l)e set out ])romptly, selecting the evening 
if ])ossil)le for the work. By shading with muslin screens for a few days, 
there shoidd be lew faihu'cs. 

\^ hen t i-ans|)lanting dij) the I'oots in a '"puddle" made of clay and water, 
a]K)nt consistency of cream, and press soil rcri/ Jinn around the roots. 

After the ])lants seem established, remove the screens, or the j)lants will 
bhinch and become tender. Always order a few more plants than are needed 
in space i)ro\ided. Set the surplus plants in rich soil, and water and shade 
tliem. These can be used later to refill vacant ])laces, for accidents, cut 
worms, etc., are pretty sure to destroy occasional plants, and vacant i)laces 
in the garden are unsightly. 

QIICK GERMINATION. 

The best success in growing jjlants depends in large measure upon 
quick and perfect germination. 

Seeds of plants are, primarily, a germ, intended to j)roduce a young 
plant of the same genus. Besides the germ, the seed also consists of a small 

14 



packet of Baby Plant Food, containing exactly the elements necessary to 
furnish the nourishment needed to support the tiny plant, until such time 
as will enable it to develop roots and leaves, so that it may be able to absorb 
and assimilate from the soil its own food, through natural means provided 
for this purpose. If germination is delayed or much retarded by unfavorable 
conditions, there is danger that this supply of food, contained in the seed, will 
be spoiled by fermentation, or decay, and the helpless little plant be starved. 
Even if the plant survives, it remains a stunted weakling, that rarely ever 
recovers its normal vigor and vitality. 

Who lias not seen corn fields in exactly this condition, when germination 
has occupied two or three weeks? Nine times out of ten this spells crop failure. 

Try to secure quick germination: the quicker the better. The necessary 
conditions are fertility, warmth, moisture, and aeration. In all these respects 
the Sandwich beds supply ideal conditions. 

Early in the season there is often a lack of sunshine and warmth and, 
therefore there is more or less trouble with seeds rotting. Nearly all of this 
can be easily avoided by sprouting the seeds before planting. If the seeds 
are really worthless, the fact is discovered in time to secure a fresh supply. 
Plants started this way possess more vigor, are more sturdy and thrifty, 
and will thrive and do well, when poor, sickly plants would utterly fail. 
The author uses a home-made machine which does the work admirably. 



THE PLANT INCUBATOR. 

This is especially useful when early plants cannot be easily obtained 
from regular growers, or when special varieties are wanted, and the plants 
must be grown at home. 

The author usually has one to three of these machines in constant use 
from March to May, for in the latitude of Central Ohio frosts and cold 
nights make it difficult to grow good, early plants. 

^Yith this machine, fine, early plants may be had in abundance and 
great variety, at small cost. With it in the South, plants may be grown all 
winter, and be ready to transplant at any time desired, regardless of "north- 
ers" or sudden cold snaps. 

The machines are heated with common kerosene lamps, at a cost, on 
an average, of two cents for each twenty-four hours. Usually very little 
fire will be needed, except during cloudy, cold, and windy days, and chilly 
nights, and by simply lighting the lamps, the plants can be safely carried over 
spells of unfavorable weather. 

15 



DESCRIPTION. 

I'lic I'laiil Incuhator consists of a cubical box, two t'cct in dimensions 
each w ay, with a roomy door on one side. This box forms the lamp chamber. 
The top is open. A i>iece of sheet iron, as wide as inside of box, and four 
inches longer, has two inches turned uj) at right angles at each end. This 
sheet iron is tacked to inside of box so that it will be held in place, two inches 
below the top of the box. The sheet iron receives and distributes the heat 
from the lamp beneath. 

The lamp should be so i>laced that the top of the chinmey is four inches 
beneath the iron. Cleats are nailed on outside of box, above the door, and 




Plant Incubator, Out-of-doors — Cover Removed. 



on outside opposite, to support the hot-air chamber, which is made of two 
boards six feet long, and six inches wide, boarded over the ends and bottom, 
except where it is slipped over the top of the lamp chamber. This should 
fit snugly, or there will be much loss of heat. It is ])est to line the entire 
inside of both lamp chamber, and hot-air chamber, with cheap asbestos 
paper. A small hole must be provided near the bottom for ingress of 
fresh air, or the lamps will not burn well. 

Three flats or shallow boxes, four inches deep, and -24 x -^t) inches in 
size, will furnish (he cover. 

16 



Fill the flats with rich compost, mixed with fine sand, and as soon as 
the soil becomes mildly warm, they are ready for planting. 

The lamps heat the diaphragm of sheet iron above, this in turn imparts 
its warmth to the hot-air chamber, and penetrates the soil in the flats above. 

The flats should have three inches of soil. In this plants will thrive 
wonderfully. 

Each flat will grow one hundred and fifty plants. After the plants are 
about two inches high, the author usually prepares three more flats, which 
are placed next to the hot-air chamber, and the flats containing the plants 
are placed on top, thus warming six flats. During mild, sunny days the 
upper flats are removed to a sheltered place, through the day, and are re- 
turned to their position above the later plantings, during the nights. A 
frame of twelve inch boards fits outside the flats, and a cover of double 
muslin screens protects the plants during the nights, or on cold, stormy 
days. The machine may be placed in a warm room by a window, in an un- 
occupied room, on a sheltered veranda, or, after cold weather is over, it 
may be placed in the garden, or out of doors anywhere. 

The hot air chamber furnishes ideal conditions for sprouting the seeds in 
effecting quick germination. 



PLANT INCUBATOR FIRST SOWING. 
ARRANGEMENT OE VARIETIES. 



. . . Cabbage . 
. . .Cabbage. 
. .Cabbage. 
, Cauliflower . 
, Caluiflower 
, Cauliflower 



75 Plants 



J5 Plants 



• Egg Plant 
Egg Plant. 
. Egg Plant 
. . Peppers . 
. . . Peppers . 



Pepper.^ 



75 Plants 



75 Plants 



. Tomato . 
. Tomato . 
, Tomato . 
. Celery . . 
. Celery . . 
. Celerv . . 



2G inches 

18 



75 Plants 



75 Plants 



Total 150 



SPROUTING SEEDS. 

Procure pieces of common, cheap burlap, each twelve by twenty-four 
inches. Pour the seeds on one end; fold burlap from both sides; roll up 
and fasten with a pin. Prepare a label giving name, date, etc. Then into 
a pan containing half a pint of warm, but not hot water, drop three or four 
drops of Spirits of Camphor. Now place the roll containing the seeds in 
this water for twenty minutes. Press out lightly, so there will be no dripping; 
wrap in five or six thicknesses of old newspaper, and place where the tempera- 
ture is regular, and about 75 . The hot air chamber furnishes exactly these 
conditions. Examine the seeds daily, and if dry, water with luke-warm 
water. 

As soon as germ shows, plant at once, or otherwise there is danger of 
losing the seed. With most of seeds there will be a gain of six to twelve 
days in time, and the seedlings will possess a surpassing vigor. A fair trial 
will convince any one of the great merits of this method. 




Post Hole Method. 
wrm ( rdMBKRs, melons, sqfashks, etc. 

Tlu' (>ss(Miti:ils tor urowiiii- those vines jiiul t'niits in perfection are: 

1st. Fertilii.w in ;ivailal)l(' form. 

•■iiul. Moisture, without soj><iiness. 

:?nl. SAND! 

\\'hile all of these vines deli^hl in a sandy soil, holh nuisk and water 
melons will only reach their greatest ])erfeclion in size and ((uality. where 
there is much sand in the soil. 




A siiifjU' hill t»f Squashes — Post Hole Method. Five of the best specimens luul 
been removed before photo was talcen. 



It is S.WI) that inal«'s Soulh(M'n Indiana and (ieorgia famous for melons. 

The poor flavor noticed in these sometimes, is because they are jjulled 
green, and permitted to ripen in transit. 

Melons are only at their best when p(>rmitled to fullx' rijxMi on the \iues. 
This alone gi\-es the honexcd sweetness so much desired. 

The Post Hole method is adai)ted to limited areas, for a few hills can be 

20 



made in odd corners and out-of-the-way places, the only condition essential 
to success being plenty of sunshine. 

The soil is neither plowed nor spaded. 

PREPARATION OF THE HILLS. 

Dig out a hole size of a wash-tub, and about ten inches deep. In bottom 
of this dig with a common post auger, or narrow spade, a hole two feet deep, 
and ten inches in diameter. 

Fill this post-hole with coarse stable litter, avoiding saw dust, and 
pack pretty firm. 

Fill the entire excavation with a compost made up of two parts sand, 
one part of fine, well rotted manure, and one part good garden soil. Mix 
thoroughly by shoveling over several times. In finishing preserve the bowl- 
like depression. When completed the "hill'" should be about eighteen 
inches in diameter and six or eight inches above the level. 

Several days before planting pour into the depression six to ten gallons 
of water to furnish a store of moisture. When soil is again dry enough the 
hill is ready for planting. 

Select the choicest varieties, and buy the best seed obtainable. Plant 
ten seeds in ti hill and cover two inches deep. 

Nearly a week can be gained by sprouting the seed as described in 
"Quick Germination." 




Cabbage, Corn and Cantaloupes Sandwich Beds, and Post-Hole Method. 

21 



For tlie striped bug place a moth l):ill or two in a small pan, and, place 
close to the plants; or sprinkle tobacco dust, a handful to the hill, on the soil 
before the plants are up; or a lure may be planted say two feet distant, in a 
circular furrow, usinj>' any cheap muskmelon, s(|uash or cucumber seeds, but 
use no tobacco on these. Permit the bugs to feast on the lure, for they dis- 
like (he odor of tobacco, and thus the choice plants in the hill are saved. 
After danger of bugs is over destroy the lure. 

For leaf blight in musk melons, prevention is easier than cure, (iet a 
pound each of Flowers of Sulphur, and dry, air-slaked lime. Mix thorough- 
ly, and sow aroimd the hill for three or four feet, on top of ground after 
planting. This amount will be enough for a dozen hills. This is intended to 
destroy the spores of the fungus which causes leaf-blight. 

The hills should be at least six feet apart. Tn planting, cover seeds 
about two inches deej), and i)ack soil lightly. 

If droughts occur, these hills may easily be watered by pouring water 
into the bowl-like depression, but first, with a sharpened stick, make several 
holes down to the litter below. After heavy rains the same precautions are 
necessary to prevent drowning. 

Managed in this way the yield of a few hills is enormous. 

The same treatment, except the lime and sulj)hur, is given to Squashes, 
Cucuml)ers, Pumpkins and Water-melons. 




^ The following ten pages show 
practical diagrams and complete 
detail description of planting 
vegetables correctly. : : : : 



23 



PLAN OF FIRST PLANTINCi. 



Peas . . . 

Peas. , 

. . . Radishes . . 
. . . Radishes . . 

Peas. . . . 

Peas . . . . 

Beets . . . 

Beets . . . 

Peas . . . . 

Peas.... 

. . . . Lettuce . . 
. . . . Lettuce . . 

Peas . . . . 

Peas . . . . 

. . . . Lettuce . . 
. . . Lettuce . . 

Peas . . . . 

Peas . . . . 

.Onion (Sets) 
.Onion (Sets) 
.Onion (Sets) 
.Onion (Sets) 
.Onion (Sets) 
.Onion (Sets) 
.Onion (Sets) 
.Onion (Sets) 
Onion (Sets) 
Onion (Sets) 
Onion (Sets) 
Onion (Sets) 
Onion (Sets) 



(i t'cct 

24 



FIRST PLANTING. 

Date of Planting: as early in Spring as ground is dry enough to work — 
usually about March "io to April 10th. 

This is written for latitude of Columbus, Ohio. Localities of 100 miles 
northward will be ten days later: same distance southward, ten days earlier. 
For 200 miles North or South, allow fifteen to twenty days; allowance should 
be made for elevation and local conditions also. The plants named are all 
hardy enough to withstand considerable frosts. 

PEAS. Varieties: Early Alaska, Little Gem, Gradus. 

Quantitij of Seed: E. Alaska 3^ pint: Little Gem }/2 pint; Gradus 1 pint. 

Distances: Apart in rows, 2 inches: Rows apart, 12 inches. 

Depth: two inches. 

All these varieties require brush two feet in height. 

RADISHES. Varieties: Icicle, Scarlet Turnip, Scarlet White Tip. 
Quality of Seed: One packet of each variety. 
Distances: Rows apart, 12 inches: Apart in rows, 3 inches. 
Depth: One inch. 

BEETS. Varieties: Eclipse, Ex. Early Egyptian, Early Blood Turnip, 
Distances: Apart in rows, 4 inches: rows apart, 12 inches. 
Quantity of Seed: One packet of each variety. 

LETTUCE: Varieties: Grand Rapids, Black Seeded Simpson, Big Boston. 
Quantity of Seed: One packet of each variety. 
Distances: Apart in rows, 3 inches: Rows apart, 12 inches. 
Depth: One inch. 

If transplanted, set plants six inches ai)art each way. 

ONIONS (Sets). Varieties: White, Red, Yellow. 

Distances: Apart in rows, 2 inches: Rows apart, 6 inches. 

Depth: Two to three inches. When fit to pull, remove two and leave 

one. Remove all of alternate rows: the remainder may mature 

for winter storing. 
Quantity of Seed: One quart of each variety. Onion Sets should be about 

size of end of small finger. If much larger they are apt to go to 

seed: if much smaller they lack vigor. 



PLAN OF SIX ONI) PLANTING. 



.X X... Cabbage X X. 

.X X... Cabbage . . . .X X 

.X X... Cabbage X X 

. X X . . . Cauliflower . . X X 

, X X . . . Cauliflower . . X X 

. X X . . . Cauliflower . . X X 

Carrots 

Carrots 

Carrots 

Parsnips 

. . • Parsnips 

Parsnips 

Salsify 

Salsify 

Salsify 

Chard 

Chard 



6 feet. 

26 



DIRECTIONS FOR SECOND PLANTING. 

Date: About April 10 to 20, or about two weeks after time of First 
Planting. 

As these are principally root crops, it is desirable that the soil be spaded 
before construction of bed. The trenching method will give excellent results. 

Where only a few Cabbage and Cauliflower plants are desired, it is 
cheaper to buy the plants of a reliable grower. 

CABBAGE: Varieties: Early Jersey Wakefield: Late Flat Dutch. 
Number of Plants: One dozen of each variety. 
Distances: 18 inches each way. Remove outer leaves. Set deep. 

Shade for a week. Heel surplus plants in shady place, and use later 

to fill vacancies. 

CAULIFLOWER. Varieties: Early Snowball. 
Number of Plants: One dozen of each variety. 

Distances: 18 inches each way. Remove outer leaves and set deep: 
shade for a week. Heel extra plants to fill vacancies. 

CARROTS. Varieties: Chantenay: Early Danvers. 
Quantity of Seed: One packet of each. 

Distances: Apart in rows, 4 inches: rows apart, 18 inches. 
Depth: Half an inch. 

PARSNIPS. Varieties: Hollow Crown. 
Quantity of Seed: One packet. 

Distances: Apart in rows, 4 inches; rows apart, 18 inches. 
Depth: Half an inch. 

SALSIFY. Varieties: Mammoth Sandwich Islands. 
Quantity of Seed: One packet. 

Distances: x\part in rows, 3 inches: rows apart, 18 inches. 
Depth.: One inch. 

Sprout seeds of Carrots, Parsnips and Salsify by use of wet burlap cloths. 
Ten days required for germination. Plant when germ first shows. Parsnips 
improve by being left in ground till needed in spring. Salsify may be dug 
as used. It is improved by light frosts. When dug store in sand in cellar. 
Chard: Varieties, Lucullus. Plant same as Beets. Leaves are uses as 
Spinach : the stems are prepared like Asparagus. 



PLAN OF I'm HI) IMANTINC. 



Parsley 

Parsley 

Peas 

Peas 

SpiiKicli 

Si)inach 

Peas 

Peas 

Spinach 

S|)iiiach 

Peas 

Peas 

Lettuce 

Lettuce 

, . .E. Ohio Potatoes. . . 

(ioldeii liaiitcin ( 'oru . 
, . .E. Ohio Potatoes. . . 
, Ciolden liaiitcni Corn. 
, . .E. Ohio Potatoes. . . 

.Country (ieiil. ( 'orn . 

Irish Col)hlcr Potatoes 

. Country (ient . ( 'orn . 

Irish ( "()l)l)ItM- Potatoes 

. ( "ountrx' (ient . ( "orn . 

Irish Cohhicr Potatoes 



(i tccl. 

28 



DIRECTIONS FOR THIRD PLANTING. 

Date, April 'lo to May 5 or about ten days after "Second Planting." 
For succession Peas, Lettuce and Radishes may be now planted. Beds 
may be by "Sandwich" System, or by the trench method. 

PARLSEY. Varieties: Moss Curled. 
Quantity of Seed: One packet. 

Distances: Apart in rows, 4 inches: rows aj^art, one foot. 
Depth: Half an inch. 

Seed should be sprouted by use of wet burlap cloths. Germination 
will require about two weeks, time. Plant seed quickly when germ first 
shows. 

PEAS FOR SUCCESSION. Varieties: Gradus, Telephone. 
Quantity of Seed: Half pint of each variety. 

SPINACH. Varieties: Curled Savoy, Victoria. 
Quantity of seed: Half oz. of each variety. 
Distances: Apart in rows, 3 inches. Rows apart, one foot. 
Depth: One inch. Sow seeds one inch apart: thin when up. 

LETTUCE FOR SUCCESSION. See Lettuce in "First Planting." 

POTATOES. Varieties: E. Ohio, Irish Cobbler. 
Quantity of Seed: 3^ peck of each variety. 
Distances: Apart in rows, one foot: rows apart, two feet. 
Depth: Four inches. Select medium sized potatoes for seed. Cut in 

halves lengthwise. Start these in sand in shallow boxes, by placing 

in cellar or moderately warm room four weeks before planting. 

Sprouts should be about one inch above ground when planted out. 

By this method two weeks time is gained. 

SUGAR CORN. Varieties: Golden Bantam. 

Quantity of Seed: One packet of each variety. 

Distances: Apart in rows 'i inches: rows apart, 2 feet. 

Depth: Two inches. When three inches high thin to 8 inches apart in 

row. The potatoes are usually dug and out of way in time for 

corn to mature. 



PLAN OF FOrinil IM.A\TIX(i 






..X 

..X 

..X 

..0 

..0 




X. . EgK •*'!'"' • -^ 

X. . E^g Phiul . .X 

X.. Egg Phuit . .X 

() Okra () 

() Okra O 

() Okni O 


X.. 

X.. 

X.. 

0.. 

. . 

o.. 


Bush Tender Pod Beans 


Bnsh Tender Pod Beans 


Busli /Pender Vtn] Benas 




. . Busli Tender Pod Beans 




Bnsh Tender Pofl Beans 




Bush Lima Beans 


. . Bush Lima Beans 


Bush T^inia Beans 


Busli Lima Beans 




Bush Lima Beans 





() feet. 

30 



DIRECTIONS FOR FOURTH PLANTING. 

Use either "Sandwich" or "Trenching" System. 

EGG PLANT. Varieties: Black Beauty, Mammoth Purple. 
Distances: 18 inches each way. 

Set rather deep and firm. 
Number Plants: One dozen. 

OKIRA. Varieties: White Velvet, Perkins Mammoth. 
Quantity of Seed: Half oz. each variety. 
Distances: iVpart in rows, 4 inches: rows opart, 18 inches^ 
Depth: Two inches. 
When plants are 3 inches high, thin to 1 foot apart. 

BEANS, TENDER POD BUSH. 

Varieties: Hardy Wax, Yellow Pencil Pod. 
Quantity of Seed: Half Pint each variety. 
Distances: Apart in rows, 3 inches: rows apart, 18 inches. 
• Depth: 2 inches. 

LIMA BEANS BUSH. 

Varieties: Henderson's E. Giant, Fordhook. 
Quantity of Seed: Half pint of each variety. 
Distances: Apart in rows, 2 inches: rows apart, 18 inches. 
Depth: One and one-half inches. 

If Lima Beans are planted with the eye downward they will germi- 
nate sooner. The beans should be pressed firmly in place before 
covering. 



31 



srccEssTox ro first planting. 



IVas 


..T 


Peas...T 

Badish 


T 


Rn.lish. . 


..T 


Peas. ..T 

Peas 


T.. 


Beets 


..T 


Beets... T 

Peas 


T.. 




..T 


Lettuce . T 

Tyettnre 


T.. 


Pea s 


..T 


Peas. . .T 

Lettnee 


T.. 




..T 


Peas. ..T 

Peas 


T.. 


. ()nif)ns 


..T 


Onions . . T 

( )nif)ns 


T . . 




Onions 




Onions 


..T 


Onions. .T 

Onions 


T.. 




Onions 


Onions 


T 


Onions. T 


T. 



TOMATOES. 
Date: May 10 to ^25. 

Varieties: Stone, Matchless, Ponderosa, Earliana. Other good varieties 
Acme, Trucker's Favorite, Coreless. It is usually cheaper to buy plants 
from a reliable seedsman, where only a few dozen are needed. Plants 
should be stocky, and six to ten inches high. 

y umber of Plants: To fill bed of "First Planting" will require 27 plants — see 
Plat on preceeding page. Order three dozen plants, and heel out the 
surplus for filling vacancies. 

Water and shade for a few days. If frosts threaten, bend the plants 
down gently and cover with earth three inches deep. Uncover when 
danger of frost is over. 

If plants are very long and slender, dig a trench three inches deep in any 
direction from where plant is to stand. Plant roots in trench, then bend 
down the stalk and cover with soil so that four inches of the top will 
come to the point where plant is to stand. It will take root where 
covered, and thus gain increased vigor. 

When "First Planting" of vegetables are matured, remove and rake the 
soil mellow. 

When plants are a foot high, set a stake six feet high, firmly by each 
plant, and as plant grows tie loosely to stake. Prune by removing 
slender, weak shoots. When plant reaches top of stake, top by pinching 
out terminal bud. Tomato plants are set where indicated by T in 
plan, "First Planting" is allowed to remain until matured. 



Special Cultural Directions. 

ASl»ARA(iUS. 

To grow asparagus successfully, the soil needs to be rich, light and deep. 

Spade the bed as directed in the "Modified Sandwich" bed, onlj' the 
soil should be stirred to a depth of full eighteen inches. Use old, well rotted 
manure, with an cfjual amount of sand. 

Plant in rows lengthwise, and make three rows on a six foot bed: one in 
the middle, and one on each side, a foot from the edge. 

'J'he ])lauts may be grown from seed, but if two-year-old i)lants are used, 
there will be a saving of at least two years time. 

Most of nursery men and seedsmen sell Asparagus plants. Care must be 
taken that the roots do not become dry, or they are almost sure to die. 

Procure plants about April '■^O, and plant quickly. Set one foot apart 
in row, and not less than eight inches deep, the toi)s or crowns about six 
inches below the surface. 

Two dozen j)lants will supi)ly a family. These will occujjy a bed 6x8 
feet, and will continue to produce for many years without rejilanting, but 
will need a generous top dressing of rich manure each fall after frosts. Also 
sow a pint of common salt, in autumn, to a bed of this size. No part of the 
garden is more profitable than the Asparagus bed. 

Conover's C'olossal, and ^Mammoth White are good varieties. 

BEANS, DWARF OR BUSH.— TENDER PODS. 

These succeed admirably on Sandwich beds. All })eans are very tender 
and should not ])e planted until the ground becomes warm. Begin })lanting 
early in May, and for succession jjlant every two weeks until middle of August. 
Plant in rows eighteen inches apart, and three inches in the row. Cover 
two inches deej). 

Livingston's Hardy Wax, and Wardwell's Wax are good varieties. One 
quart will plant 100 feet of row. 

For green pods, Stringless Refugee is excellent. 

BEANS,— POLE OR CLIMBING.— TENDER PODS. 

These should be planted about two weeks later than Bush beans. Form 
hills three feet apart east and west, by four feet, north and south. Plant 
four beans in a hill, cover two inches deep, leaving space in center of hill 
for pole. Or plant two grains of sugar corn in each hill to supj)ort the vines. 

One quart will plant 100 liills. 

Kentucky Wonder for early; Old Homestead for main crop. 

34 



LIMA BUSH. 

These are grown same as other Bush beans, but should be pkmted ten 
days later. Plant in rows two feet apart, and three inches in the row. Press 
the seed into the ground with the eye downward, and cover two inches 
deep. Varieties, Foodhook, and Burpee's Improved. 

LIMA BEANS,— POLE OR CLIMBING. 

Plant one week later than other Pole Beans, in hills three by four 
feet apart, and five beans to the hill. Press seed in soil, eye downward, and 
cover two inches. Set poles eight feet long, firmly, one to each hill, and 
bring upper ends of four together, tent fashion, and tie firmly. If poles 
cannot be had, slats will answer. 

Climbing Limas are more productive than Bush, and are less liable to 
spoil in wet weather. Corn stalks will not support the great weight of climb- 
ing^Limas. 

Climbing Limas require a long season to mature, so do not defer planting 
too long or they will likely be caught by early frosts. Large White, and 
Dreer's Improved are good varieties. One quart will plant 75 hills. 

BEETS. 

Beets are semi-hardy, and may safely be planted quite early. The 
seed should be sprouted, but plant when the germ first shows. Plant in 
rows one foot apart and four inches in the row. They will usually need 
thinning, as a single seed often produces several plants. When thinning 
cut off half of the tops, and transplant in vacancies or new rows. These will 
mature a few days later. 

For late pickling, plant seed about middle of May. 

One ounce of seed will plant 75 feet of row. 

Early Blood Turnip and Early Bassano are good varieties. 

CABBAGE— EARLY. 

These do wonderfully well on plain Sandwich beds or on the "Modified" 
bed. 

For extra early plants, sow seed in the Incubator flats in March, in 
rows four inches apart and two inches in the row, sprouting the seed first. 

35 



It' tlu" |)l;iiits <ir()\v spindling', sift with liaiid fiiu' sand Ix-twccn rows, until 
ii|) to till' si'od, or primary leaves. Tliis will insure fine stocky plants 
Transplant Lo open <froun(l as soon as ground is in good order, and when 
l)lanls are five or six inches high. Set very deep, but do not cover the crown. 
If there conies severe cold weather, protect with several thicknesses of news 
paper. They will withstand considerable cold. For cabl)age worm use 
Slug Shot. One ounce of seed produces about "2()()() jjlants. 

Early Jersey Wakefield and (dory of Knkhousen, are excellent \arieties. 
Plant in rows eighteen inches apart each way. 

CABBACIK L.VTE. 

Sow seed about May "^O on Sandwich beds in open ground. Sprout 
the seed, water well with hose, and shade with screens for several days, but 
not too long or the plants will be spindling. For cabbage fly sprinkle with 
powdered tobacco leaves, before the plants are destroyed. Transplant about 
June 15 to rows two feet apart and 18 inches in row. Set deep and when 
well established hill uj) around the plant slightly. 

American Sa\'oy and Late Flat Dutch are good varieties. 

CARROT— EARLY. 

I^)ng rooted |)lants do l)est on the Modified bed. Sow seed where they 
are to grow, early in Spring, in rows 18 inches apart, and four inches in row. 
Cover half an inch deep. One ounce will sow 100 feet of row. 

Early Danvers and Chantenay are good varieties. Sprout the seed 
before planting. 

For late Carrots sow seed in ^LlV or Hrst half of June. 



CAULIFLO^YER. 

Cauliflower is in its nature, very similar to Cabbage, and can easily be 
grown to j)erfection on Sandwich beds. Sow seeds in flats in incubator in 
February or March after sprouting the seeds. Plant in rows three inches 
a})art and two inches in row. Cover one fourth inch. Treat like cabbage 
plants. Transplant to open ground April first to fifteenth, and set rather 
deep, in rows eighteen inches apart both ways. Henderson's Early Snow- 
ball .seems to be the favorite variety, and is really one of the very best. 

Seed is usually high in price. One-fourth of an ounce will produce 
500 plants. 

36 



For late crops sow seed about middle of May in rich soil, or on Sandwich 
bed, and transplant like late Cabbage. When plants are of suitable size, if 
weather is very warm, shade for few days till plants are established. Cauli- 
flower like cabbage, needs frequent watering. Use same \'ariety for late crop. 

CELERY. 

This desirable vegetable is somewhat difficult and troublesome to grow 
by old methods. By the plan here outlined, gratifying success is, relatively, 
easy of achievement. Indeed the Sandwich beds are perfectly ideal for 
Celery growing. 

The author has been able to produce, with uniformity, from 1000 to 
1500 choice heads of fancy, high flavored (^elery for each square rod of Sand- 
wich bed. 

Sow seed in March or first of April, in fiats, after first sprouting the seeds ' 
which are very small and usually germinate very slowly. In flats with the 
Incubator much time is gained. Sow in rows three inches apart, and about 
one quarter of an inch apart in rows. As many seeds will fail to germinate a 
little thicker sowing will insure a good stand. AYhen plants are two inches 
high, pull up and transplant in flats, two inches apart, in rows which are three 
inches apart. Water well, and shade for a few days. 

About first to middle of May, or any time even a month later, plant in 
open ground in Sandwich beds, setting the plants exactly five inches each 
way. 

In transplanting be careful to have the plants of uniform size, or the 
smaller and weaker ones will be croAvded out by their more sturdy neighbors. 
Trim off at least one-third of roots and tops, and dip roots in "puddle" be- 
fore setting. 

"Puddle" is a thin mixture of clay and water, and should be about the 
con.sistency of cream. 

Press soil very firmly about roots, then water copilously, and shade 
with muslin screens for a few days. If any plants fail to grow, put in fresh 
ones, so there are no vacancies. 

WsLiev frequently and somewhat copiously. This is best done in the 
evening. 

To stimulate growth, ai)ply in dry state, Xitrate of Soda, by sifting the 
Pulverized crystals, with the hand, between the rows, but be careful to keep it 
off the foliage. Use a heaping teaspoonful to one hundred plants, and repeat 
about twice, at intervals of ten days. 



WIkmi i)l;iiils ;iri' oi^Mit to t(Mi inches high, do most of tlie watering by 
permittin<i; the hose to lie on the firound hetweeii rows, as too much water 
on the foilape may in(hice rust. 

Ill ahout six weeks from hist trans|)hintinfi'. hhinching' may bej^nn. 

Take cheap, ()ne-j)ly roofing' felt, such as Flint Kote, or similar material, 
and cut in pieces 1(5 inches by VZ inches. Hend in cylinders which should l)e 
about 5 inches in diameter, and Vl inches long. With small tacks fasten the 
edges together, lapjjing one inch. The tacks will hold better if there is an 
inch strip of the same material on the inside of the cylinder, where the lap 
is tacked. Use a two foot piece of two-inch gas j)ipe as a anvil, on which to 
nail, fastening one end firmly in a vice. Now first lay the strij) on the 
gas pipe, then place the lap directly over this strij), the cylinder encircling 
the pipe, and drive tacks through the three thicknesses, and clinch on gas 
pipe. Use about six tacks to each cylinder. 







Blanching Celery willi Tubes. 



Next have your tinner make an "Enfolder" of light, galvanized .sheet 
iron. No. '-29 as follows :- 

Hend two strips of sheet-iron in form of half cylinders, so that when 
placed with coiicav(> sides towards each other they will form a complete 
cylinder. The |)roper si/e of strips is .)i.i inches wide, and eighteen inches 

.?8 



long. These will form a tube in two parts, 3^/2 inches in diameter. Attach 
light hinges by riveting them inside of the half tubes, in such way that the 
two halves can be easily opened or closed. 

For use, gather the leaves and stems of the celery in left hand, then with 
open cylinger in right hand, press the open face close against the plant, and 
as it is closed encircle the plant. Now drop the blanching tube over enfolding 
cylinder and all, and then withdraw the enfolding cylinder — and the plant 
is snugly placed within the blanching cylinder.' 

It is easily and quickly done. 

The blanching will usually require about 8 to 12 days, when the celery is 
ready for the table, or it may me allow^ed to remain in the tubes until wanted. 

If weather is hot when blanching, place muslin screens, supported by 
stakes, about three feet above the ground, where blanchers are being used; 
otherwise sometimes there will be sun-scald. 

After putting on blanching tubes, water only by allowing the nozzle of 
hose to lie on the ground. Do not spray over the celery while in tubes, though 
rain will do no harm. 

Common drain tile will answer for tubing, but they are very heavy, 
costly, and liable to breakage. 

When tubes are made of roofing they may be made in two sections, 
telescoping together. The advantages of this form however does not pay 
for extra cost and trouble. 

About twenty-four tubes, or even a less number, will answer all purposes, 
as they are moved further along, and used again and again, as celery is cut 
for use. 

Light frosts do not hurt celery, but hard freezing will destroy it. 

It may be removed to cellar, if taken up with some soil adhering, and 
packed, not too closely, in upright position, in boxes, but do not wet the 
foliage or stems after removal, or they will surely rot. 

If only a few hundred heads are needed, it if usually cheaper to buy 
the plants of a reliable dealer, than to grow them yourself. Order plants about 
June 10.*^ It is desirable to have a few extra plants to fill vacancies. 

Golden Self Blanching is a very satisfactory variety. A single packet 
of seeds will produce a surprising number of plants. 

Celery is usually grown as second crop, after Peas, Lettuce, Radishes, 
Onion Sets, when used green, etc. It may even follow early potatoes, or 

:.9 



Karl\' Siii;;ii- ('urn. I)ut slioiiM iinl hr I raiisphiiil (nI later than .Inly 1st. 

h'iiic, t"i-('slu crisi) ( 'el cry is ci'rlainlx- a liixiirx', and well worlli the troiihle 
of iin)\viii<>". 

ci(imiu:k. 

('iiciiinl)t'rs ma\' he very successfully j^row n l»y the '"Post Hole"" uietliod 
ui\cM elsewhere, and treatment is exactly the same as ( "autaloujjes, except 
that the use of liiii" and sulphur is unnecessary. 

\\aler freel> and uather the fruits daily, if needed for picklinj'-. Do not 
IxMinil the frnils to ripen on the vines, or they will cease bearing', ("ucum- 
l)ers and Cantaloupes do not "mix," even when yrown side by side. 

White Spine and (innui Prolific are <>o()d \arieties. 

i:(;(, riAXTS. 

sprout the seed and plant in flats in March. 'I"ransj)lant to open ground 
last of May, settin<; plants pretty det»p and firm. When well established 
hill up earth around the ])lants and press firm. Pick off the Potato beetles 
by hand, or dust the plants with White Hellebor(M)r Paris (ireen. 

One dozen plants will sui)|)ly a family, ^^atc^ freely fcjr best results. 

\aricties: Black lieauty, Mannnoth Pur|)le. 

i:m)ive. 

Sow seed after sproutinj>', about middle of April, and when of sufficient 
.size, transplant to rows I'i inches apart each way. 

It may be blanched like celery in tubes, but retpiires somewhat laruer 
tubes. 

Nothing can be finer than Kndine when grown on Samlwicji beds, and 
blanched in this way. 

It tilancliing is done in very hot weather, shade with mn^Iin screens 
on stakes two feet high. 

White Curled and (Ireen Curled are fine \arielies. 

KOHL RABI. 

Sow .seed in March in flats, after s|)routing. 'rrans])laid in rows 10 
inches apart each way, as soon as plants are of suitable size. 

riiey are much like cat)bage in their nature, and are managed in similar 
niainicr. 

They nuisl lie used before full grown, as tiiey will l)ec )me tough with age. 

Karly White \ ienna is a u'ood \arielv. 



LETTUCE. 

Lettuce is of two kinds; those which grow loosely, and those which form 
heads. 

For early, sow seeds in flats in March, and keep in Incubator until about 
two inches high, when they may be transplanted to open Sandwich beds, 
setting plants six inches apart each way. Or the seed may be sown out of 
doors at time of "First Planting." Rows six inches apart, and not closer 
than two inches in the row. 

For early use, cut all of alternate rows. This will give remainder plenty 
of room. 




Grand Rapids Lettuce — Radishes and Peas in Back-ground. 

Li hot days shade with muslin screens raised one foot above top of plants. 

For succession, sow^ every three weeks until middle of July. The later 
sowings must be shaded to secure fine, crisp quality. 

Loose Varieties: Grand Rapids, Black Seeded Simpson. 

Head Varieties: Big Boston, Crisp-as-Ice. 

Trianon Cos, or Olery lettuce, may be blanched like Celery, when it is 
very fine. 

All kinds are easily transplanted. 



MELON- -WATER. 

[For Mii.sh Melon, .src '' CanfaloiijH's'^ in '' Po.st Hole flill.'i.'') 

Water inelons siiould receive precisely the same treatment as musk 
Melons, except that lime and sulphur are not needed. In |)reparing Post 
Hole Hills do not forfjet that Water Melons delight in j)lenty of sand. 

\'arieties. Water Melons, (Icorf^ia Rattle-Snake, and Sweetheart. Musk 
Melons, Ohio Sugar, Tip Top, Miller's Cream. 

OKRA, OR GUMBO. 

Plant seeds al)out middle of May, in rows 18 inches apart, and four 
inches in row. When i)lanls are three inches high, thin to one foot apart. 

While Velvet is an excellent variety. 

The pods must l)e used when small, while tender. 

For succession make two plantings, tlnw weeks apart. 

ONION SETS. 

Secure "sets" or bulblets about first of March, and for extra early 
green "pulls", start the bulbs in a box of sand. Put in a layer of sand, then 
a layer of bulbs, and co\er with sand. Kept in a rather cool, dark place, 
where they will soon form rootlets, when they are ready to plant. Rows may 
be six inches apart. Set the bulbs, right end up, or they will l)e crooked, and 
not more than two inches apart in rows. Plant them at least two or three 
inches below the surface. 

When large enough to [)ulL remove two, and leave one, and remove all 
of alternate rows: tlie" remainder may be allowed to mature for winters use. 

Select bulbs for j)lanting about size of end of small finger. If nmch 
snudler they are lacking in vigor, and are tedious to plant. If much larger 
they are apt to throw uj) seed stems. 

Bulbs are White, Red, and Yellow. The White are generally preferred. 

Egyptiiiii or \Nint<M' Onions, are set in SeptemlxM-. when the\' will furnish 
green "pulls" very early the following Sjjring. 'I'hey are jjcrfeetly hardy. 

poiwroEs. 

Potatoes will do moderately well under almost any conditions, but for 
very best results, both in (|uality and yield, use the Modified Sandwich bed. 

I find it a very great advantage to start the seed potatoes before planting, 

42 



by first cutting the potatoes in halves, and covering with sand or Compost in 
a flat, placing them in a moderately warm room, not necessarily in the light, 
and thus permitting them to form roots, and start sprouts from the eyes, to 
a length of about half an Inch before planting. 

When thus treated they make a very vigorous growth and may be 
planted about middle of April or even later, and thus avoid having the tops 
frosted, as often happens if planted very early. Frosted tops always lessen 
the yield. 

This way of starting the seed insures earliness in any event, and helps 
to avoid severe frosts. 

At least two weeks are gained by this method. Cut and sprout seed 
about March 25 to April 1st. Plant out of doors April 1'2 to 20th. 

Plant one piece in a hill, about 1'2 inches apart each way. Cover fully 
four inches deep, and be careful not to break off sprouts or roots. 

Select medium sized potatoes. One peck will plant 100 hills. 

Early Ohio is a very satisfactory variety. After planting is completed, 
cover the entire bed with stable litter, at least three inches deep. 

When plants appear, pull out weaker ones, leaving but two stems to 
the hill. This thinning is absolutely necessary to complete success. 

Treated as above described, the author has grown, on a space 6 x i^O 
feet, seven measured pecks of choice potatoes. 

PEAS. 

The common belief that peas will do best on thin, poor soil, is not correct. 
They yield wonderfully well on Sandwich beds, for early varieties, and on 
the Modified Sandwich beds for late. 

It pays to sprout the seed before planting: . the "stand" is more even, 
and several days time is gained. 

Early sowings should be covered about one inch, but later sowings 
may be covered two inches. 

Plant in rows one foot apart and quite thickly in the row, say one seed 
to two inches, for not all all of the seed will grow. 

After j)lanting two rows, 12 inches apart, it is best to leave a space of 
three feet, then two more rows more, and so on. The vacant space may be 
sown in radishes, lettuce, beets, or filled with onion sets. 

For very early, choose Early Alaska, which is a smooth variety. Little 
Gem is a dwarf, wrinkled variety, and is also early. These require no brush. 

43 



(inidiis is :i s|)I('n<li(l variety, and is "2iid early. Telephone is fine tor main 
(•ro|). Tlie last two re<|nire l)riisli abont two feet lii^li, one to each toot of 
row. For sneeession j)lant every three weeks hut not later than middle of 
June. Sonielinies later planting will do well, hut not often. 

PARSLEY. 

Seeds of this |)lant germinate very slowly. 

Sj)rout, and sow in flats, and keep in Warm Ineuhator until plants come 
uj). This may he done in March or April. 

Transplant in rows one foot apart, and four inches apart in row. 

Moss Curled is an excellent \ariety. 

PARSNIPS. 

Sow on "Modified" Sandwich beds as early in S])ring as weather will 
permit, first sprouting the seed. They germinate very slowly. 

Plant seeds in rows IS inches apart: 4 inches apart in row. Cover half 
an inch deej). 

They improve by frost, and may be left in ground where grown until 
Spring. 

For Winter use take up in late fall, anil store in sand in boxes in cellar. 

Hollow Crown is an excellent variety. 

PEPPERS. 

Plant seeds in flats and place in Incubator in March or .\pril. Trans- 
plant last of May or first of June, "l}^ ^^^"^ apart each way. 

Chinese (iiant, and Rul)y King are good varieties. 

PUMPKIN. 

Same treatment as Water Melon. For s(iuash bug, dust vines with 
j)owdere(l tobacco leaves. 

Winter Luxury is a good \ariety. 

For ".lumbo"" |)umpkins, try True Pot Iron, often of gigantic size, 
weii^hini; as nnieli as '2(10 lbs. 



If extra large size is wanted, pinch oflF all but one specimen, and give 
■occasional watering. If rich earth is placed on the vines in several places, 
roots will form, and give the plant increased vigor. 

RADISH. 

The radish thrives exceedingly well on common Sandwich beds. There 
should be plenty of sand in top layer of compost. 

Sprout the seeds, and sow at intervals of three weeks, from March till 
September. 

If Gypsum or Land Plaster is sown over the beds before planting, a 
quart to the square yard, the quality will be greatly improved. Mix by 
raking the soil. 

For winter radishes, sow about June 1st. Succession may be had by 
sowing all kinds mixed, but the later ones will lack in crispness. 

Sow Radishes in rows 1'^ inches apart, and not closer than S in<^hes in 
the row, Cover one inch deep. 

Icicle, Scarlet Turnip, and Scarlet White Tip, are excellent varieties. 

To be good, radishes should grow quickly, and great care must be taken 
to avoid thick seeding. 

RHUBARB OR PIE PLANT. 

Make a Post Hole Hill, only the hole should be wider. Procure in 
early Spring divided roots, and set one in each hill, and pack rich soil closely 
and give a good watering. 

Do not pull stems the first season. Never permit the flowering stems 
to remain, or the plant will be greatly weakened. Pull them out as soon as 
they appear. Give additional manure each fall. The ground cannot be 
made too rich. 

If one-year seeding roots can be had, they are much better than divided 
old roots. 



SALSIFY, OR OYSTER PLANT. 

Salsify does best on "Modified" Sandwich beds, Sprout the seed same 
as Parsnips. Sow early in April in rows 18 inches apart, and 3 inches in row. 
Cover one inch. 

d5 



Salsify may he (lii)4 as used, or it may hr left in the <in)Uii(l all winter, 
Lifilit freeziii-i raflier improxes it. 

For ^^ iiiler's use dii; and store* in sand in hox in cellar. 
Manimotli Sandwich Island is a fine variety. 

SPINACH. 

Sprout the seed, and sow in hills or rows hi inches aj)art, and' about 3 
inehes apart in row. Cover one inch. Sow at intervals of three week.s for 
.sueeession. 

When weather f>ets warm, shade with screens supported on stakes two 
feet hiffh. 




Hill (.1 (■ul,|rn Haiitain Corn. 
46 



SUGAR CORN. 

Plant all kinds of Sugar Corn in rows four feet apart and about 8 inches 
apart in rows. But first sprout the seeds, and reject any that do not start 
vigerous growth. Cover two inches deep 

It is useless to jjlant before the ground is warm, for. seed will rot, but if 
seed is carefully sprouted they may be planted a week earlier on Sandwich 
beds than on ordinary soil. By this plan ten days time is gained over other 
methods. 

Corn may be grown with Early Ohio potatoes, as shown in third "Group 
Planting". This plan is designed where the available area is very limited. 
If there is room, separate planting is recommended. 

For succession plant every three weeks till July. 

Golden Bantam for earlv: Coimtry Gentleman for late. 



SQUASH. 

Squashes require same treatment as Water Melons, For Squash Bug 
use white Hellebore. For striped bug use powdered tobacco leaves a hand- 
ful to the hill, scattered directly over the small plants just as they emerge 
from the soil. 

Sow ten or twelve seeds to the hill, and after danger is over, thin to 
two strong plants to the hill. Cover two inches, and firm the soil slightly. 
If Squash Bugs become numerous and destructive, pick by hand, and drop 
them into a pan into which there is a little coal oil. If left undisturbed they 
will quickly ruin the crop. 

For winter's use pull before frosts, and store in a cool room where it 
does not freeze. 

Delicata and Banana are superior varieties. 

SWISS CHARD. 

This unique vegetable deserves more attention than it usually receives. 
It belongs to the Beet family, but the stems and leaves are used and not 
the root. 

Stems may be used like Asparagus, or leaves and stems may be pre- 
pared like Spinach. They are excellent either way. 

Sprout the seed, and sow in rows 18 inches apart, and 12 inches apart in 

the row. 

47 



(ii\(> |)l(Mit\' of wjitcr. 

I*iill tlic l(':i\(>s riccly: the iiiorc \(Hi iis«\ the lister tlicy arc renewed. 
A few plants will Mipply a faniil\-. 

Tliete is l)iil one \aiiet\- I.nenllns. 

It traiLsijlants easily, so vacancies can readily be filled. 




Swiss Chard LucuUus. 



TOMATOES. 



Of all the vefictables <>rown in the uardeii, the Tomato is easily King! 

Sow seed, after sprouting, March 1st in fiats, and kec]) in the Plant In- 
cubator. The seed germinates very slowly, usually requiring three weeks 
to "come up" when sown inider ordinary conditions. In the Incubator it 
requires but half as long. In flats, the rows an> .'5 inches a])art, and seeds are 
placed one incii apart in row. 

When plants are two or three inches high, pull out all of each alternate 
row, and every other |)lant in remaining rows. This will gi^•e remaining 
plants ])lent.\' of room. Otherwise they will become spindling. 

The |)lanls tlni> pnllcil should l)c carefully transplanted to fresh flats, in 

48 



rows three inches apart each way. In transplanting set very deep, and shade 
for a few days. Water frequently, but not too much at a time, or they may 
rot or blight. 

When plants are ready to set in open ground, proceed in manner de- 
scribed on page 3'2 in "Succession to First Planting", which see. 

For training to stakes proceed as follows: 

When plants are one foot high, prepare for staking. Use a stout stake 
four and one-half feet long, sharpened at one end. Drive this firmly into the 
ground about 18 inches deep. A hole may J)e made with a crow-bar to receive 
the stake. 

To this stake wire a slat or pole eight feet long, by twisting a number 
12 wire firmly around both slat and stake, near the ground, and another 
around both, near top of stake. This is much easier than to try to drive a 
long stake. 




Tomato Vines Ten Feet High — Five Bushels on Place 6 x 12 Feet. 



For tying, use strips of muslin about an inch wide and thirty inches long. 
Double the strips, pass the closed end around the stake, pass the loose ends 
through, forming a slip loop around the stake. Pull tight and then tie the 
plant with the loose ends. Tied this way the string will not slip. Tie at in- 



49 



h'i-\:ils of a tool iiiilil the lo|) of stake is readied. Tliiii out surplus laterals, 
l>ut tlo not (lesti'oy I lie t'rilif l)ranelies. 

When plants aic two ieet liiuli, inuleli with st raw, leaves, or litter, al)()ut 
.six inches deep. 

'rii<> earlin(\ss ol' tonmloes dejjends more upon the a^e and vi^or of the 
|)laiit. than the speeial variety, though Earliana has .some advantages in 
earliness of ri|)enin«i'. 

(irowth and ripening can be considerably accelerated })y the apj)Iication 
of Nitrate of Soda, a teasponoful to the j)lant, scattered on top of tlie ground 
around the plant before mulching. Repeat in ten days. 

Uy methods here described the author has grown tomato vines ten and 
one-half feet high. The yield on 18 plants being five and one-half measured 
bushels of superb fruit. See engraving. 

TURNIPS. 

Turnii)s may be sown in April and May, but rarely do well. For late, 
sow in August or early half of September Sow in rows twelve inches apart, 
and ten seeds to the foot. When well started, thin carefully to six inches. 
Neglect of thinning will s\nn\ the crop. 

After sowing Liie seed, the ground should be tramped firm, and then 
given a good soaking. If shaded wdth muslin screens for a few days, a better 
stand is often secured. Turnijjs may be used to fill vacant ])]aces made by 
by removal of other cro])s. 




50 



Succession. 

These may be planted for succession at any time 
between dates named. 



SEEDS. 

Lettuce, - April to August. 

Radishes, April to September. 

Beets, April to August, 

Sugar Corn, May to July. 

Beans, May to August. 

Cucumbers, - May to July. 

Endive, April to August. 

Peas,-- April to July. 

Potatoes, ---April to June. 

Spinach, -- April to September. 

Turnips, - April to August. 

PLANTS. 

Cabbage, ' April to July. 

Celery, - April to July. 

Peppers, May to July. 

Tomatoes, May to July. 

Kohl Rabi, -- April to August. 

Cauliflower, April to August. 

For late planting choose Early varieties. 

51 



'IHA\SlMAXTIN(i TABLE. 



Readily Transplanted. 



Asparafi'us 

Beets 

C'ahhage 

Cauliflower 

(Miard 

( 'elery 

Egg Plant 

Endive 

Kohl Rabi 

Lettuce 

Onions (from seedlings) 

Parsley 

Pepper 

Tomato 



Difficult to Transplant. 
Best to sow seed where wanted. 

Beans 

Carrot 

Corn 

*Cucumber 

*Mellon, ^yater 

*Mellon, Musk 

Parsnips 

Peas 

Pumpkins 

Radish 

Salsify 

*Squash 

Turnips 

Okra 



*These may be started in j)ots and with care may be transplanted to 
open ground. 

Seeds of the following are usually sown in hotbeds for setting out in gar- 
den as soon as weather and soil permit. Can be started in Incubator. 

If only a few plants are needed it is cheaper to purchase of a reliable 
seedsman or i)lant grower than to attempt to grow them: 



VEGETABLES 


FLOWERS 


FLOWERS 


Early Cabbage 


Asters 


Stocks 


Early Cauliflower 


Balsams 


Verbena 


Egg Plant 


Cannas 


Pansy 


Endive 


Carnations 


Heliotrope 


Kohl Rabbi 


Coxcomb 


Marigold 


Lettuce 


Cosmos 


Phlox 


Onion (.seed) 


Dahlia 


Larkspur 


Pepper 


Dianthus 


Moonflower 


Tomato 


Ricinus 


Zinnias, Etc. 


Beets 


Salvia 




Chard 







52 



CULTIVATION. 

The Sandwich System does not require that the plants receive much 
hoeing or other cultivation. Usually a little stirring of the surface soil, 
and the pulling out of weeds is about all that will be necessary. 

A very narrow hoe should be provided. The Author had such an im- 
plement made by his blacksmith, at a cost of fifty cents, which gives excellent 
results. 

The blade was made of tool steel, about width of a butcher-knife, only it 
was bent into a curve like the letter "J", the lower end pointed, and with 
both edges made sharp. A light handle was purchased at hardware store. 

FERTILIZERS. 

If additional fertilizers are needed the following will be found excellent 
for the purpose. 

X it rate of Soda: One fourth pound to the square rod 

Apply after plants are above ground, being very careful to keep it 

off the leaves. 

Pulverize and apply before watering. Repeat at intervals of 

two weeks. This will give quick and rapid growth. 

Costs about 5 cents per pound. 

Ran- Bone Meal: Apply broadcast, and rake in soil before planting, one 
pound to scjuare rod. 
Costs about 3 cents per pound. 

Wood Ashes- Apply broadcast before planting, and rake in soil, two pounds 
(two quarts) per square rod. 

WATERING. 

Of course, by the Sandwich Method of Gardening, success can only be 
attained by the supply of plenty of water, for otherwise the plants will soon 
perish. Most cities and towns, and even villages, now have water-works, and 
the supply is constant and amj)le. 

Watering should be done in the evening, if best results are to be obtained, 
and it is much better to water profusely once or twice a week than to give a 
light sprinkling oftener. In very dry, hot and windy weather it may be 
necessary to water every other day. 

Some plants require much more water than others, notably. Celery, 
Spinach, Cauliflower, Lettuce and Radishes. Peas and Beans require less. 



hut should uot he allowed to lau-;uish for lack of water. Celery especially 
wants plenty of moisture, l)ut it is usually hest to allow the water to soak into 
the firound without perniittinji; the leaves or foilage to })ecome wet, because 
if the latter is kept wet, rust and blight may ensue. This is especially true 
when the plants get to be six inches high or larger. At this stage of growth, 
water the roots only. This can be done by laying the hose on the ground in 
the middle of the bed, and ])ermitting a light flow. Let this continue until 
the groiiiid in the bed is thoroughly soaked. 

Most plants are better ofi" if the water is sprayed directly on and over 
them. Sometimes, in very hot weather. Lettuce and Endi\e will rot if 
too much water is supplied. 

For Cantaloupes, Squashes, Cucumbers, Watermelons and Pumpkins, 
water in the manner described in the chapter on Cantaloupes, but stop 
watering as time of ripening approaches. 

All these plants are better for a lil)cral supply of water at intervals 
of a week or so; especially is this true of ('ucumbers. When grown by the 
Post-Hole Method, and liberally watered, their productiveness is marvelous. 




54 



DATES FOR PLANTING IN THE SOUTH. 

The dates here given are for latitude of Jacksonville, Fla., Mobile, Ala., 
New Orleans, La., and San Antonio, Texas. For points one hundred miles 
north the dates should be ten days earlier in Autumn, and about same length 
of time later in Spring, for each one-hundred miles. Allowance should also 
be made for difference in local conditions. 

Artichoke, Seed February. 

Artichoke, Suckers November. 

Asparagus, Seed February. 

Asparagus, Roots March. 

Beans, Tender Pods March to May. 

Beans, Lima April to May. 

Beets, January to April ; July to November. 

Chard January to April. 

Brussells Sprouts August to September. 

Borecole February to March. 

Cabbage Jnly to September: January and February. 

Cauliflower April to September. 

Celery May and June: August and September. 

Sugar Corn February to June. 

Cucumber March to July . . . 

Egg Plant January. 

Endive March to May : September and October. 

Garlic October and November. 

Kohl Rabi January and February: July to October. 

Lettuce January to April; Se])tember to December. 

Melon, both kinds March and April. 

Okra March and April. 

Onion, Seeds and Sets. . .January and February. 
Shallots, Sets November. 

55 



DATES KOK IMANTINCi IN THE SOUTH— Concluded 

Parsley Xovcmhcr, February: June and July. 

Parsnips and Carrots January to March. 

Peas, 'I'oni 'I'luinil) Vu^ust and Septenii)er. 

Peas, Marrowfat lainiary and Fc'hruarw 

Peppers January. 

Potatoes, Irish January to March (Fel). 1st is best date.) 

Potatoes, Sweet Vpril and May. 

Radish riie whole year. 

Salsify October. 

Spinach September and March. 

S(piash March to June. 

Tomato lamiary to March: May to Jinie. 

Turnips January, to March: July to October. 

The -Vuthor's personal experience in <;ardening in the South j)roves tiiat 
the Sandwich Heds are admirably adapted to that region, for excellent crops 
were grown regardless of adobe, alkali, sand, or other unfavorable c-onditions. 

The Double Muslin Screens are just what is needed to i)rotect tender, 
succulent plants in this land of Sunshine. By use of this means of protection, 
the finest grades of Celery. Lettuce, Spinach, Radishes, etc., can be j)ro- 
duced with certainty. 

Other cultural directions are similiar to those found in the body of the 
book. 



56 



STRAWBERRIES. 

This fine fruit is usually grown on large areas, but can be produced in 
abundance, and of the finest flavor, on very limited spaces. 

The difference in flavor is very much in favor of the home grown article. 
This is particularly true where berries are necessarily picked before fully 
ripened, and shipped to distant markets. 

For finest flavor and highest excellence, Strawberries should be gathered 
when fully ripe, preferably in the cool of the morning, with a trace of dew 
upon them! 

The Modified Sandwich beds are exactly adapted to producing this 
delicious fruit in its greatest perfection. A space 6 x 12 feet will usually 
produce enough for a small family, both for dessert and jam, but a bed twice 
that size, 6 x 24 feet, will afford enough in addition for gifts to appreciative 
friends, and few articles give the supreme satisfaction that a dish of large, 
sho^-y, delicious Strawberries is capable of inspiring. 

It may be that the owner of a small plot in the back-yard, while wishing 
to grow something nice, yet has not spare time to attempt many vegetables; 
to such Strawberry growing, even on a very limited scale, certainly offers 
peculiar attractions, for after the beds are constructed and carefully planted, 
they need very little attention. 

An occasional hoeing, and pulling of grass and weeds, will be about all 
that is needed. 

The planting should be done in latitude of Columbus, O., as early as 
April. In fact the plants should be set as soon as other "First Planting" is 
done, though good success may be often secured by planting as late as May 
10th. 

Spring planting is usually much more successful than fall planting, in 
this latitude. 

In latitude of New Orleans, San Antonio, etc., planting may be done 
any time from November to February. 

The beds should be six feet wide, and of any suitable length. In making 
up the Compost, add another part of sand, that is, the Compost may be as 
follows: One part rich soil, one part fine stable manure— that from cow 
stables preferred — and two parts fine river sand. 

First spade the ground, filling the trenches with fine manure as each 
line of spading advances, as described in Modified Sandwich beds. Spread 

57 



nhoiil three iiiclies of ( "oinpost, ;is ahoxc deserihecl, (>venly ox'er \\\v \)c<\^, 
;iii(l iii.ike l()ler;il)l\ liriii l)y I raiiipiiifi'; rake smool li, and it is ready lor |)laiit iiiu,'. 

\\lieii i)laiits are reeei\(*d. remove all Wiit three yoiiii<i-, i'resh leaves; 
dip I he roots in "j)ud(lle," whieh is a mixture of clay and water, about 
consistency of cream. Allow the roots to remain in ])uddle until planted; 
that is, do not drop them ahead of planter, for the roots will soon suffer, if 
exposed to dryiuii air. 

In |)iantin^', first make a hole about five inches in diameter, and three 
or four inches deep. In l)ottom of hole make, with the hand, a small conical 
nioinid, say three inches in diameter, and two inches hiiih. Set the center 
of the plant directly over the center of tlie conical hill, spread tiie roots 
e\'enly and smoothly, in all directions, down the sides, and then, carefully 
draw line compost over the roots, fillinu u|) the hole till the (iround is level. 
To prevent soil coverin<i' the heart of the |)lant, gather [he leaves in left 
hand, until plantini>' is completed. 

.Vfter tillinii in the soil, press down rcri/ finiih/. placin<;' toe of shoe on 
each side of plant, close u|), and lluMi |)ressin<i' with full weight. 

\\ hen i)lantin,<> is jjroperly done, the plant will be a little below the le\el. 
and set so (irmly that it cannot be j)ulled out by drawing on a single leaf. 

After .setting, pour a (piart of water over and closely around each plant, 
and then .shade with nuislin screens for three or four days. Water again 
when screens are removed. 

In ordering plants be sure to get a few extra ]>lants of eac-h \ariely. 
These may be planted temporarily, and used later to fill vacancies. 

.Michael's Early, Rubach, (iandy, and .Vroma are fine varieties, and give 
a long season of ripening. 

If other \arieties are substituted, be sure that at least two varieties, 
out of fi\e, are staminale flowered. The pistilate varieties are among the 
best bearers, if they are ])roperly pollenized by staminate varieties planted 
near by, otherwise they will not be ])ro(luctive. 

Plants set in mamuM- here described will cover the ground the first 
season, and bear abundantly the following s|)ring. In the North a light 
protection of leaves, or stable litter, will protect them from winter kill. 
But the covering must not be very thick, or they will often l)lanch and rot. 
Put on barely enough cover to conceal the i)lants; a little less will be better. 
The nmlch or covering need not be removed in spring. 

For stimuhiting growth, use Nitrate of Soda, a |)int to a bed twenty- 
four feet in length (six feet wide). Ai)|)l>- the fiiiel>- |)u]\-eri/.ed crystals l)y 



hand, broadcast, by sifting between plants, being very careful to keep the 
Nitrate off the foliage of the plants. This should be applied early in spring, 
and repeated two or three weeks later. 

After fruit is all ripened, the bed can be made productive for second 
year, in the following manner: 

With a sharp hoe cut off, close to the ground, all the plants on a strip 
18 inches wide, leaving alternate strips of plants of same width. These strips 
thus destroyed should be where the old plants stood, leaving young plants 
for next crop. Then with narrow hoe, thin the strips remaining, leaving 
a vigorous plant not nearer its neighbor than six inches. Then with a spading- 
fork loosen the soil between rows, and around plants. Water well, and a 
vigorous growth of young, healthy plants will soon cover the entire bed. 
If they become matted, it will pay to pull out the weaker plants, otherwise 
the berries will be smaller, and of poorer flavor. 

Nitrate of Soda may be used second season, applied in same manner as 
directed for first crop. 

After two crops, the bed should be changed to new location, })lanting 
a new patch the second spring. 

Or a new plantation may be made every Spring, destroying the plants 
after first crop is gathered. 

Treated in this manner, one-hundred plants should produce from two 
to three bushels or more of highest grade of delicious fruit. Between time 
of blossoming and ripening of fruit, they should be watered at least every 
other evening, rather copiously, reducing the quantity of water as ripening 
approaches. 

On Alkaline soils, or on Adobe, it is better to use the regular Sandwich 
bed, for on these beds, properly constructed, good crops can be grown, even 
where ordinary methods fail. 

Plants may be set in rows, eighteen inches apart, beginning nine inches 
from the side, thus planting four rows on a bed six feet wide. In rows, twelve 
inches apart. 

A l)ed x '■24! feet will require 06 plants. Better order 125. 

When ])lants arrive they should be planted without delay. This is 
important. 

The estimated yield here given is very conservative. The author has 
been able to grow more than double this quantity. 



FLOWKHS. 

I'Ir' Modified Sandwich IJeds are exceedingly well adapted to nearly all 
kinds of flowering plants, with the possible exception of the Nasturtium, which 
does best on rather poor soils. On Sandwich Beds the growth is too rampant. 

Sweet Peas should be ])lantcd very early. In the North al)out last of 
March, in South in December and Jamiary. 

Plant at least six inches deep, and rather thinly in the rows, say six 
inches ;ti)art. 

Provide wire screen, four feet wide, for support. Water somewhat 
profusely, and be sure to cut the flowers every day. If ])ods form, blooming 
will cease, or the blooms will be smaller. 

The rows should not be nearer than three feet apart. 

Buy seed from reliable seedmen, and ask him to select varieties. 

CHRYSANTHEMUMS. 

Buy the plants from your Florist, and ask him to select good, standard 
varieties, (live them room. They should not be less than thirty inches 
apart each way. 

If extra large and fine blooms are desired, prune severely, and "debud" 
or pinch out, when small, all but a few buds, or better yet, leave but one 
bloom to each stem. 

A small application of Nitrate of Soda will stimulate vigorous growth. 
They also rctjuire considerable moisture. 

The larger and finer varieties are somewhat tender, and will be damaged 
by freezing. When cool weather approaches, the plants can be taken up, 
and removed to shelter, by lifting the plant with a good clump of earth ad- 
hering to the roots. Place in large pot, or box about one foot sipiare. Pack 
around the roots firmly, enough soil to fill to within two inches of top of 
box, water well, and set in shade for several days. They will continue to 
bloom till holidays, if kept in sunny j)lace and not allowed to freeze. 

DAHLIAS. 

Buy plants rather tliaii tubers. Seeds sown early, in Incubator, and later 
transplanted, will give a great variety of blossoms the first season. But if 
fine, large blooms are wanted, buy plants of named varieties, and here also 
standard varieties will give satisfaction. Plant out of doors as soon as danger 
of frosts is well over. Thev need room, and should be at least three feet 



apart each way. Prune where too many branches appear. Plant a 
stout stake at least four feet high, near each plant, and to this tie plant se- 
curely, at intervals of one foot, otherwise they will straggle to the ground, 
and do but little good. 

Use a little Nitrate of Soda about the roots, and water well throughout 
the season, for best results. 

The author has grown blooms full nine inches in diameter, by method 
here given. 




INDEX. 

.\s])jir;i<xus 34 

licniis. TcikKm- Pods 34 

H<>;iiis, Lima 35 

Heels 35 

Hoard Frainos 13 

CahhaKc. Hiirly 35 

('al)l)aKo, Late 36 

Carrots 36 

( 'aiiliflowor 36 

Celery 37 

Cucumber 40 

Cultural Directions 34 

Cultivation 53 

Dates, etc., for ])lanting in the South 55-56 

Diagram of arrangement of varieties 18 

Diagram of first group of i)lanting 24 

Diagram of Second grou]) planting 26 

Diagram of Third group |)lanting 28 

Diagram of Fourth grouj) planting 30 

Directions 33 

Directions for making Sandwich beds 11 

Kgg Plant 40 

Endive 40 

Fertilizers 53 

Flowers 6-60 

(irou|) Planting 14 

Hot Hed Plants 52 

Introduction 3 

62 



Kohl Rabbi .40 

Lettuce 41 

Melon, Water 42 

Melon, Musk or Cantaloupes 20 

Muslin Screens 13 

Okra, or Gumbo 42 

Onions 42 

Parsley 44 

Parsnips 44 

Peas, 43 

Peppers 44 

Planting Directions 25 

Planting Directions 27 

Planting Directions 29 

Planting Directions 31 

Post Hole Method for Melons, etc 20 

Potatoes 42 

Preparation of hills 21 

Pumpkin 44 

Quick Germination 14 

Radish 45 

Reference table for sowing, etc 5 

Rhubarb, or Pie Plant 45 

Salsify, or Oyster Plant 45 

Space and production 7 

Sprouting Seeds 19 

Spinach 46 

Squash 47 

Strawberry Growing 57 

63 



APPr 13 1912 

Succession to l''iisl I'laiitiii^ 32 

Succession 'I'altlc 51 

Su<;;ir ( "orn 47 

Swiss Cliard 47 

Tomatoes 'J'2-48 

Tools iind appliances 12 

Transplanlinu Table 52 

'i'urnip 50 

The 1)03^ gardener 8 

The Modified Sandwich bed 12 

The Plant Incnhator 15 

The Sandwich System 10 

Wutering 53 



The Magee Bros. Co., Printers, 
PiQUA, Ohio 



